A Holiday in Palanga

We deliberately chose five days of rest in Palanga before the summer season started, to avoid the large tourist crowds and spend time in a tranquil mood. The weather was also reasonably warm (+16 to +19°C), although one could really only sunbathe in the shelter of a dune or on a park bench, not on the windy beach.

The pedestrian street - J. Basanavičiaus gatve - was still adorned with large decorative eggs. One of them was entirely covered with small pieces of amber, marking Palanga's close connection with this treasure of the Baltic Sea. It should be said at once that the Gintaro muziejus (Amber Museum) itself was closed for reconstruction, so we could only stroll around its surroundings in Palangos Birutos parkas (Birutė Park).

As our accommodation I chose via Booking.com the three-star hotel Kerpe (Vytauto gatve 76), on account of its reasonable price (400 LTL or 115 EUR for 5 nights per person, breakfast included), its location (not far from the pedestrian street leading to the sea), and the large windows of the room (light). The hotel did not disappoint - clean, tidy, courteous service, SPA facilities, free parking, and light but wholesome breakfasts.

Bear in mind that the town is fairly small and oriented primarily towards tourism, as evidenced by the many hotels and cafés. There are few tourist attractions, but the main one - the sea pier - is well attended. It is occupied by the many anglers who from early morning to sunset each day pull sea perch out of the water with remarkable intensity.

Where to Eat (or Not to Eat) in Palanga?

We sampled about eight dining establishments along the pedestrian street. In total there could be around a hundred in town - cafés, bistros, restaurants, coffee and ice cream stands - offering the national cuisines of various peoples (Lithuanian, Armenian, Uzbek, Ukrainian, Russian, etc.). Notably, unlike our own Jūrmala, there were no Japanese or Chinese eateries or sushi bars to be seen. Almost every establishment offers draught beer and fish.

Coffee prices at different places ranged from 6 to 9 LTL. A good spot is Max Coffee (Vytauto gatve 94) - a cosy, small café with a modern interior and fine coffee, both to enjoy on the spot and to take away.

On the first evening we were lured in by the smart interior of the fish restaurant Žuvine (J. Basanavičiaus gatve 37A), but the food was thoroughly disappointing. The salmon I was served was dry, reheated, and even slightly burnt. At the adjacent table a lady was complaining that her salad had been gritty with sand. On top of that, I was presented with a bill of 52 LTL including a mandatory 10% service charge.

If you want to eat your fill to the point of bursting with hearty food, head to the Armenian cuisine restaurant, which goes by the name Armeniški šašlykai (J. Basanavičiaus gatve 27). Enormous portions, well-prepared, juicy meat (both the classic and the Armenian bone-in shashlik), generous sides - and all for 25–27 LTL.

For smaller appetites and with no pretensions as to interior decor, two hearty cepelinai in bacon sauce for 9 LTL will certainly do the job, available at Laukinių Vakarų Salūnas (J. Basanavičiaus gatve 16).

Another good spot is De Cuba (J. Basanavičiaus gatve 28), where one can lounge in wicker armchairs under a canopy, enjoy a main course, various ice cream desserts, pizza, and freshly squeezed juices.

My personal favourite for both food and ambience is the café 1925 (J. Basanavičiaus gatve 4). There I had a beautifully prepared turkey breast with lingonberry sauce and accompaniments - a fruit salad of banana, strawberry, peach, pear, and kiwi. An excellent and slightly unconventional flavour combination. There was a brief wait, but the outdoor terrace seat in the sun by the riverside did not invite hurrying. Prices reasonable (around 32 LTL per person), courteous service, tip at the guest's discretion.