Great Latgalian Market 2013 at Ludza Castle Mound

For the fifth year running, the Great Latgalian Market took place at the ancient Ludza castle mound, traditionally on the eve of Midsummer. This year on Saturday, 22 June, many and varied traders in goods, craftspeople, herbalists and folk singers, skilled beer brewers, and potters made their way up the hill.

The sun was generous with its warmth; at midday the temperature exceeded +30 degrees. The brows of both market participants and visitors were beaded with sweat. That is precisely why a sizeable queue held all day at the ice cream and cool home-brewed beer tent. Considerably less attention was paid to the beautifully knitted warm pairs of socks, shoulder shawls, and small woolens. Who would think of harsh winter frosts or damp autumn evenings when the sky is so blue and the grass so green?!

There was plenty to take home as well as to enjoy on the spot. Large loaves of bread, homemade pressed cheese, honey, and hearty Latgalian beer. Herb women were weaving Midsummer wreaths, braiding maple leaf crowns, and tying bundles of herbs. Health-promoting teas and soaps based on natural plants were waiting for buyers. Of the latter, there were not so many at the market. It seems that this year many were worn out by the sun and climbed the castle mound only when dusk fell and the outdoor summer dance began.

In the middle of the castle mound flew the Latgale flag, while a mini version of it could be purchased from two book vendors. We ended up buying two good books in the Latgalian language - Marija Andžāne's "Puisāns ar kozu" and Mikelis Bukšs's "Latgaļu atmūda". The first appealed for its fluent and easy-to-follow language, while the second was recommended as a good historical testimony about the fates of the Latgalians and Latgale.

The resonant voices of the folklore ensembles "Egle", "Isnauda", and "Ilžas" echoed far across Ludza's Little and Great Lake, which surround the castle mound from both sides. Those gathered could observe the blacksmith's craft, the weaving of traditional belts and wicker baskets, as well as ancient Latgalian warrior combat with swords, demonstrated by the Kroma Hill Brotherhood.

The Great Latgalian Market is on the whole a lovely event, to which one would wish growth in breadth, depth, and popularity among Latvia's residents. What invariably draws me to it is the naturalness and authenticity - in forms, in flavours, in sounds. One of the most positive ways in which pride in one's land, region, people, and their wisdom for living and joy in life can find expression.