Exploring Latvia: Amata, Ieriķi, Āraiši

On a Sunday afternoon we decided with friends to take a loop through Vidzeme and stop at two long-planned destinations. This time to the Amata municipality near Cēsis - the ancient Latgalian lands, one might say. Perhaps this will inspire someone to get in the car next weekend and go exploring Latvia right here at home.

Araisi Lake Fortress

The first stop, not far from the Rīga–Pskov (E77) highway (GPS: 57.2517, 25.2824), was at Lake Araisi. Paying 3 EUR per person at the ticket office and leaving the car in the free car park, we set off to visit the three sites marked on the map given to us. The first was the fortress itself - or more precisely, about 16 wooden huts arranged on a platform and log decking built on a lake shoal. A 9th–10th century Latgalian dwelling site.

Residential and outbuildings, a metalsmith's workshop (closed to visitors, though the other huts could be crawled into), annexes. It seems people were somewhat shorter in stature in those days and not particularly stocky, as the little doorways are small with high thresholds. Some of the houses have turf roofs. Historians estimate that around 70–90 people may have lived here.

In one of the little houses various local meadow herbs were laid out with descriptions. A feast for the senses - smelling them, reading the names, exercising the memory. It would have been even better to know what each herb was used for. Folk medicine - there you have it!

The second attraction, right there on a hilltop, is the ruins of a Livonian Order castle from the 14th–17th centuries. Little remains of it. However, the view from there takes in the whole surrounding landscape. In the distance one can see both a rusty-red church tower and the broad sails of a wooden windmill.

The third - Stone and Bronze Age dwellings (branch shelters) on Maidens' Island. Among ourselves we agreed that the ancient peoples evidently knew the right energy spots to settle in. Beside the castle ruins grows an oak grove, while Maidens' Island is full of colourful meadow flowers, edible mushrooms, and an indescribable peace.

Zaķīši Farm

Driving a little back along the highway towards Rīga and turning off towards Amata (brown sign with a rabbit image and the corresponding inscription), we arrived at the farm Zaķīši (GPS: 57.12050, 25.16707). There were already quite a few visitors before us. Dutifully parking cars before the brick sign here and there along the gravel road, interested people of various ages, genders, and nationalities made their way towards the farm.

Right by the road and the sign one could view a pond with ducks of various sizes and colours, and very nearby in the kitchen garden the first rabbit was already basking, comfortably settled beside a row of carrots and cabbages. In the yard a cashier awaited, inviting everyone before wandering around the farm to pay the entry fee of 3 EUR per person and purchase a cup of feed for 1 EUR, from which one could then feed all the farm animals - geese, turkeys, chickens, rabbits, nutria, a horse, goats, a pig, and cows.

Unlike Rabbit Town near Vecumnieki, here everything suggests that the owner (a talkative, single man in the prime of life) does not strain himself over perfect order or special little houses, benches, or flowers. Here one can easily step into a puddle or tread on someone's paw.

Rabbits, ducks, nutria, and people wander freely around the rabbit yard. Small and large alike try to feed the animals; the more patient ones succeed, while from the rest the little residents scurry off and try to hide in the shade of a bush or under a building. Stroking almost any of the animals proves impossible - they are timid from such crowds of visitors.

The white horse, on the other hand, is happy to be hand-fed by all who wish to. The goats leap along the fence and over a rusty tracked tractor. The large grey wandering pig (as the owner himself described it in conversation) showed little interest in people and made its way towards the forest.

Dzirnakmeņi

On the way back to Rīga we stopped at the inn Dzirnakmeņi in Ieriķi. There are nature trails nearby, but the day was visibly turning towards night, so we did not walk them. We did, however, sit down on the outdoor terrace of the inn and tuck into large portions with enormous pork chops, draught beer, and kvass.

Beyond Vangaži in the direction of Rīga - the traffic jam characteristic of this summer. One should allow for about half an hour at 10–20 km/h, as major road works are under way.