Venice - A Second Encounter

When visiting Venice for the second time, a small superstitious worry nags: that returning to a place you once loved greatly might spoil the impression. But it did not. The only thing was that, thanks to our pragmatic guide, we had to bid farewell to many illusory notions and legends about several of Venice's landmarks. But that was fine too - it was an opportunity to look at the city from a different angle.

Venice is not sinking, although it floods fairly regularly, particularly in spring and autumn. We were lucky to walk on dry feet. We navigated between the signs "Per S. Marco" (to St. Mark's Square) and "Per Rialto" (to the Rialto, or Merchants' Bridge) - the best waypoints for tourists, because, as the group leader put it, God forbid you try to navigate Venice by map.

Having acquainted ourselves with the obligatory informational part, we crossed the Rialto Bridge, where, on the group leader's recommendation, souvenirs could be purchased at lower prices. Naturally, the most original souvenirs suggested were carnival masks, Murano glassware (jewellery, figurines, vases, etc.), and lacework pieces. I, as ever, roamed among the rows of traders in search of penguin figurines - and found them in abundance: large and small, black-and-white and colourful, from 20 EUR to 650 EUR.

Group tours differ from individual travel in that time is mercilessly limited, so unlike the first visit, this time there was no chance to go up St. Mark's Campanile, enter the basilica, or take a gondola ride - but at least an hour was devoted to the pleasures of the table. Somewhat ironically, we lunched at exactly the same place as before; incidentally, I recommend Trattoria Pizzeria Aquila Nera (S. Bortolomeo 5301 Rialto, Venice - in the narrow alley directly opposite the Rialto Bridge). A meal consisting of Pasta di Mare (spaghetti with seafood), Lasagne, and Vino della casa (a 0.5 l carafe of house white wine) came to 37 EUR for two.

In Italy one must also sample the gelato - rich and refreshing on a warm and sunny day. This too we enjoyed in Venice in place of dessert.

It seems nothing has changed in four years. Only the pigeons have become noticeably fewer. In St. Mark's Square they no longer sell little bags of grain with which one could feed the birds.