Sicilian Wines

This month we are fans of Sicily, as it is one of those places on the world map where one would someday love to go. Initially, hearing the word Sicily, one associates it with the mafia, the Corleone surname (the godfather of the New York Sicilian mafia), the constantly active volcano Etna, sunshine, and the sea. In reality it is the largest island in the Mediterranean, with approximately 5 million inhabitants, the capital Palermo, a three-legged Medusa head (Trinacria) on its coat of arms - which conventionally symbolises the island's triangular shape - and a rich and ancient history stretching back several millennia before our era.

The thought occurred that initially one might try to get to know such a place from afar and then go and test, verify one's impressions and stereotypes about it by travelling there independently and exploring the island in every direction. We gained some insight into Sicily from the TV channel Моя Планета and the feature films "Baarìa" (2009) and "Malèna" (2000).

 

Stills from the films "Baarìa" and "Malèna"

But one wanted not only to see but also to taste Sicily, so I convinced Larisa to focus this time specifically on Sicilian wines. The wine event brought no disappointment - rather, new discoveries and even falling in love with one wine that comes from the very foot of the Etna volcano.

Although small, Sicily nevertheless produces around 35% of all Italian wines - a volume comparable to that of the Australian continent as a separate entity. Sicily has 24 wine regions, which are concentrated mainly in the western part of the island, the Trapani area, though there are also vineyards in the south near Etna and on the small islands of volcanic origin along Sicily's coasts. Sicily wine map: http://www.delongwine.com/Sicily_Wine_Map.pdf

Sicily wine map - www.cellartours.com

The first wine to taste: Donnafugata Vigna di Gabri 2009 from Ansonica 65% (Sicily's oldest grape variety) and Chardonnay 25% grapes. The aroma was distinctly Chardonnay in character, but the flavour had a pleasant acidity reminiscent of green apples. Interestingly, the Donnafugata website features a project - wine & music - where for the enjoyment of each wine a corresponding background track has been recorded. For example, for this wine one is invited to listen to Rita Lee - Agora Só Falta Você. The wine I would choose; the music, no.

We enjoyed the wine with soft cheese wrapped in grape leaves with olives, though it also pairs well with seafood, white meat, and vegetables.

The next white wine: Planeta Alastro 2009 from Grecanico and Chardonnay grapes. A bright yellow colour; initially the aroma seems understated, with acidity but not overpowering. The flavour: white chocolate. Gentle - to me it even seemed overly gentle. Alongside came quiche with tuna, tomatoes, dried olives, yellow bell pepper, and green salad with a grape seed oil dressing.

This producer, Planeta, also has an exceptionally well-organised website where one can read absolutely everything about each wine - from the technical production process, colour, and flavour to food pairings, finishing with the label design and the elements used in it. For example, this wine's name and label design come from yellow-flowering shrubs that bloom around Lake Arancio.

Planeta CRU Chardonnay 2008 - rich yellow, full-bodied, classic Chardonnay. The flavour: citrus fruit, butter.

Then came the wine with which we both fell in love to such a degree that the very next day we headed to the wine shop "Arka" for another bottle, to test our taste buds in the atmosphere of home. Yes - it's the real thing! Ulysse Etna Rosso 2006 - D.O.C. - a red wine from Nerello Mantellato and Nerello Cappuccio grapes. The wine is aged in oak barrels. In the flavour: smoke, plum, and a vanilla note. Not heavy; the tannins are unobtrusive.

The vineyards are at the foot of Mount Etna. The black soil, formed as a result of volcanic deposits, gives the grape its distinctive flavour. Vineyards near Etna were established and wine production began relatively recently, yet already delicious wines are available. Enjoyed with veal roast beef, peppered salami, olives, and sun-dried tomatoes.

The fifth wine: Donnafugata Sedara 2008 from the Nero d'Avola grape (one of the leading red grape varieties in Sicily). The wine is aged 9 months in cement tanks. Colour: dark red; aroma: deeply ripe cherry. Flavour: dark cherry, rounded, no heaviness and no obtrusive tannins. This seems to be exactly what distinguishes Sicilian red wines from the red wines of central Italy. The sun has rounded out the flavour.

From the same grape, Planeta Santa Cecilia 2006. Aged 12 months in 225-litre oak barrels. In the aroma: red fruits, plums, and liquorice. About wines like these I always want to say - this one is for smelling, not drinking. The aroma is captivating. In the flavour a spice note appears, the tannins make themselves felt. The finish evolves and becomes much softer.

For dessert: Pellegrino Cantine Marsala Fine, also from the Nero d'Avola grape. The wine is fortified with brandy, a solid 18% alcohol. The aroma is somewhere reminiscent of port wine, but lighter. A sweet and spiced flavour. Served with chocolate or chocolate confections.